the_custom_bicycle

RIDING TECHNIQUES

of the prime reasons that some riders find this uncomfortable is because the bicycle setup is incorrect. If you are experiencing difficulty in riding with your elbows bent (or you have specific neck or back pains when riding), review the portion of chapter 20 that details proper setup.

Rule of thumb: If you want to go faster or apply more force to the pedals, increase the amount of bend in your elbows.

As outlined in chapter 20, the reason is simple—the powerful gluteus maximus comes into use as the back is bent below 45 degrees. There are two additional reasons why the elbows should be bent:

1.Bent elbows act as shock absorbers for your body. This shock absorber effect results in less abuse to the rider and to the bicycle. It reduces "pounding" on the elbow and shoulder joints and also relieves much of the strain that wheels are subjected to when crossing railroad tracks or hitting bumps.

2.Bent elbows provide a "safety buffer" in situations where a rider is bumped from the side by another rider. If a rider is riding with "locked" elbows and is bumped, the forks will react violently and increase the possibility of a spill. If the elbows are relaxed, any sideward force will be absorbed by the elbow and arm, not the bicycle.

Rule of thumb: The wrist should be straight when using the drops of the handlebars.

Since the use of the bottom of the handlebars results in such a drastic body position, the drops should only be used under conditions of maximum output. Therefore, the arms should be using the handlebars to increase leverage and pedal pressure. In this situation, the only practical position to be able to pull effectively is when the wrist is straight. A useful analogy is the position of the arm and hand when lifting a barbell. It is obviously very difficult to lift with the wrist bent.

Normally, the hand will be located in the curve of the handlebars when the wrist is straight. Riding with the hand located at the back part of the bottom of the bar usually indicates that the rider is resting his weight on the bars. If the rider is

THE CUSTOM BICYCLE

resting his weight on the bars because it is the most comfortable position for the back, the same position of the upper body can be maintained if the hands are moved to Position 2 and the amount of bend in the elbows is increased. Position 2 will also provide the shock absorber effect without any loss of efficiency.

Many riders unconsciously perform miniature "push-ups" as they ride. This is an indication that the rider is not using the arms properly and it actually tires the rider more than if the upper body is kept relatively still. Imagine, for instance, how many of these miniature push-ups are performed during a two-hour ride. Now imagine sitting at home with your hands on a table performing the same push-ups for two hours. None of that energy expended was used to make the bicycle go faster. The push-ups are usually performed unconsciously by the rider, but they should be eliminated because they result in an energy loss without any increase in efficiency.

Pedaling

Strictly speaking, intentional "ankling" is incorrect in spite of the many books and magazine articles that tell of its benefits. None of the dozens of coaches that we have spoken to about pedaling advocate ankling. A review of the many good European cycling books will reveal that there is no mention of ankling as a benefit to cycling. The motion that has often been incorrectly described as ankling, is an exaggeration (or misunderstanding) of the motions used in walking. Let's review the motion of a person's foot during a single step before we discuss proper pedaling technique.

1.As the foot is lifted, the heel naturally precedes the toe in the upward motion of the leg. No one makes a conscious effort to raise the heel first. It moves first because the muscles controlling the foot are relaxed and the lifting motion of the leg is done by the muscles in the upper leg.

2.As the foot descends, the heel begins to lead the toe, in readiness to make contact with the ground, since the heel will touch the ground first—not the toe.

THE CUSTOM BICYCLE

Coasting through a corner

To better understand why the recommended position is so effective, let's look at the two primary factors that act on the bicycle when cornering at speed—the center of gravity of the bicycle and the traction of the tires. The weight of the rider is primarily resting at the level of the bicycle seat. The amount of weight on the seat decreases, of course, as the rider increases pressure on the pedals. The traction of the tires is affected by the tire construction, road surface, weight of the bicycle and rider, and the centrifugal force caused by going through the turn. To increase cornering speed, the center of gravity of the bicycle must be lowered. That is best accomplished by placing the majority of the rider's weight on the pedals.

Specifically, a right-hand turn should be accomplished as follows:

•Rider's nose over right hand. (This means that if a plumb line were to be dropped from your nose, it should fall just over the right hand.)

•Inside crank (right foot is in uppermost position) should be in the up position.

•Outside crank (left foot is in lowest position) will be in the down position.

•Rider should concentrate his weight on the outside leg— effectively lowering the center of gravity as much as possible.

A left-hand corner is negotiated similarly:

•Rider's nose over left hand.

•Inside crank should be up.

•Outside crank should be down.

•Weight on outside leg.

Some riders prefer to allow the inside knee to drop from its normal position near the top tube for improved balance, however it is not required.

RIDING TECHNIQUES

Crossing railroad tracks or large bumps

The rider should absorb the majority of shock transmitted by large bumps. To do this without rider discomfort, the hands should firmly grip the handlebars, the elbows should be well flexed, and the rider's weight should be concentrated on the pedals which are held stationary in a position parallel to the ground. This position reduces the deadweight that causes bent rims. It also lowers the center of gravity of the bicycle, and, similar to the technique used in motorcycle scrambles, the bicycle moves around freely under the rider with a minimum loss of control.

Riding with One Hand

Frequently the rider is required to remove one hand from the handlebars, whether it is to reach for a water bottle or signal for a turn. This can result in a potentially dangerous lack of control of the bicycle if not handled properly. The preferred method of one-handed riding can best be demonstrated by the riders in a six-day bicycle race. When the rider pushes his teammate into the race, he always has his hand on the top of the handlebar adjacent to the stem. With the hand near the center of the handlebars, the weight of the rider is as equally distributed on the handlebars as possible. To prove the benefits of this position, perform the following test: Ride one handed with your hand in Position 3 (at the bottom of the handlebars). Attempt a few swerves to the left and the right. Next, perform the same test with one hand in Position 2 on the handlebars. Finally, perform the swerve test with one hand in Position 1 on the handlebars. The difference in control between the three positions should be immediately obvious.